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Cambridge Underground 1973 p 22

A ONE-WAY TRIP

Grange-Rigg/Christmas...a pretty standard exchange. That's what Evan and Nick thought until this summer, when they found that there's more to the system than meets the eye.

For this trip, you will need a 120' rope, self-confidence and an understanding CRO Warden. Rappel down the first pitch (50'), slide down the second (10') and rappel down the third (15'). The fourth (35') is an easy rappel, the fifth (15') is a free-climb, and the last pitch (20') should be abseiled *, from an extremely awkward take-off. Sprint down to the sump and you should be ready for daylight and fresh air again.

Hoik out your prusiking gear and race up the bottom pitch: free climb the next one and you should now be more or less at the bottom of Christmas Pot. The bottom pitch (15') is a very easy climb, but the next one (20') is greasy and loose with badly positioned holds. Never mind if you don't make it at first; just tie an etrier loop in either end of your 120' rope, lassoo a couple of knobs of rock and walk up.

Soon after this comes the entrance 90-footer. The crux of the trip? By no means. Climb up a flake on the left to a ledge 30 feet up. Chimney ten feet up a rift on the right until the way is blocked by a jammed boulder. You can either mantelshelf onto this or, if you prefer - after all, it is quite exposed - use an etrier again. The rest of the climb is easy, except for one section about 30 feet below the moor, where you have to trust to friction.

This is a good, satisfying trip which helps one to appreciate the easiness of many of the better known free-climbs in Yorkshire, the first pitch in Little Hull, for example. But don't treat it lightly; the originators of the route absolve themselves from any responsibility for rescues!


Web editor's Note: Readers should note carefully the use of the words "rappel" and "abseil", the subtle difference having become somewhat lost in current usage. "Rappel" (from the French "to recall") means to descend on doubled rope and pull it down, whilst abseil means to descend a single rope, leaving it rigged for a later ascent.
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